Protective Roller Derby Gear (Required)

When it comes to your skates, you’ll usually end up replacing parts as needed.  With regard to protective gear, it’s in a skater’s best interest to be more proactive.  Replace helmets according to manufacturer’s guidelines.  Replace any gear when it becomes damaged.  You should replace elbow pads, wrist guards, and knee pads at least once a year.  If you can’t remember the last time you replaced it, you should replace it now.  If duct tape is critical to the performance of your protective gear, replace it.

 

Mouthguards—There is probably a greater variety of mouthguards available than any other type of equipment in roller derby.  Mouthguards can start at $1 for basic youth-size boil-and-bite guards and can easily go over $100 for custom-made guards.  It just depends on personal preference.  If you are only wearing a mouthguard because the regs say you have to, stick with the low end and save your money to put towards other gear.  If you have already dropped a lot of money on corrective or cosmetic dentistry and want to protect that investment, or you want to try to avoid having to do so in the future, definitely spend more and go for a custom job.

Helmets—Helmets are really a matter of personal preference.  There’s not one that substantially outperforms others.  If it fits properly, it’s good.  How do you know if it fits properly?  It should be snug but not so tight it makes your head hurt or leaves marks on your forehead.  Your strap should be snug, and the helmet shouldn’t be wobbling around on your head.  If you aren’t sure, check with a ref who officiates for a WFTDA-based league, as they are required to know proper safety gear standards..  If you are to the point where you are doing full-contact hitting with experienced skaters, you shouldn’t be using any secondhand safety gear.  Depending on construction, some helmets are rated as single-impact, and some are rated as multi-impact.  You can usually find out on the manufacturer’s website which yours is, but if they don’t have it listed, a short email to their customer service should get you the info you’re looking for.

            Popular Helmet brands—Triple 8, SixSixOne, Protec

Elbow Pads—You’ll find that your elbow pads will last longer and take less of a beating than the rest of your gear.  For the most part, there isn’t a huge variation in price among different brands of elbow pads.  Just get ones that fit well and are within regulation (WFTDA requires elbow pads, knee pads, wrist guards, and helmets to have hard protective shells or inserts), and you’ll be good to go.

            Popular Elbow Pad brands—187, Triple 8

Wrist Guards—Wrist guards tend have the shortest useful life of all protective gear, especially when you’re new to the sport.  Ask around, and the veteran skaters will point you in the right direction, since some brands last longer than others, though you’ll probably still end up replacing them a couple of times a year.  Just keep in mind that you want ones that fit properly and cover nearly all of your palm.  Also, while the glove-style wrist guards are popular, they don’t breathe well, so you’ll likely end up with stinky, sweaty hands.

            Popular Wrist Guard brands—Triple 8, Protec, TSG

Knee Pads—Knee injuries are arguably the most common injuries in roller derby, and they can end your derby career in an instant.  Even if they aren’t career-ending, they can result in months of pain and limited mobility, rehab, or even surgery.  This is definitely one area where you don’t want to go cheap.  Buy good knee pads from the start, and replace them regularly.  Look for pads that provide sufficient cushioning, fit well, and stay secure.  One of the determining features for a  lot of skaters is whether the knee pads are open-backed (strap-on) or closed-back (slide-on).  Most people prefer open-backed so they can put them on or take them off without removing their skates.  Fortunately, the most popular brands, that also happen to afford the best protection, are open-backed.

           Popular Knee Pad brands—187, Triple 8, Smith Scabs

Protective Roller Derby Gear (Optional)

Padded shorts—These are really popular with thinner skaters, and they can prevent a lot of bruising in pelvic/hip area.

           Popular Padded Shorts brands—Triple 8, McDavid

Knee gaskets/braces—Knee gaskets are probably the most common optional protective gear used in derby.  If you have already sustained a significant knee injury, you may have been given a gasket or brace by your doctor.  Always wear it according to your doctor’s guidelines, even if you need to replace your knee pads to accommodate it.  If you are looking for added knee support, possible prevention of injury, support for an untreated injury, or a gasket to help keep your knee pads from slipping, there are several brands available, and they usually offer some additional cushioning over the knee cap.

            Popular Knee Gasket brands—Gladiator, TSG, McDavid

Ankle Supports—Since speed skates offer no ankle support and derby is done on a relatively small track with tight turns, some skaters find it beneficial to use ankle supports.  This is more of an issue for skaters with previous ankle injuries or weak ankles, as well as for jammers who are taking the tight turns at a faster pace than blockers.

            Popular Ankle Support brand—McDavid

Roller Derby Skates

Skates are obviously a huge expense in derby.  They are essentially an extension of your body, and they need to fit and function in such a manner that, when you are on the track, you never think about them.  Some parts will last for years; some will only last for months.  When you invest in your first pair of derby skates, it’s crucial to get a good foundation so that you only have to replace the consumable parts, wheels and toe stops, on an occasional basis.

Boots—There are a lot of boots to choose from, and it can be hard without being able to try them on.  However, it is possible to select the right boot for you if you do a little homework.  Check out manufacturers’ sites and read up on the particulars of all the boots.  Riedell probably gets the lion’s share of the derby market, in part due to quality as well as some design features favored by derby skaters. 

Things to consider when choosing a boot—do you prefer synthetic or leather?  Leather will last longer and breaks in easier, but if you are vegan or are looking to save some money, some of the synthetic boots might be more appealing.  If cost is the only factor, it is usually preferable to go with a lower-end leather boot than a synthetic boot.  It tends to pay off in the long run.  Also, do you have narrow feet or a narrow heel?  If so, you will want to find a boot with a smaller toebox and go with one that has what’s known as a “combo D/B last”.  Skates with such a combo last are D-width at the ball of the foot but B-width at the heel to accommodate the narrower heel that most women have.

One more thought on boots—you won’t meet many skaters who will say they wish they spent less on their boots, but you’ll meet a lot who wish they spent more.

Plates—One of the best investments you can make is in an aluminum plate.  Less expensive nylon plates bow over time and it is not uncommon for them to split, crack, or break into pieces.  This is especially true if you keep your trucks loose, as a lot of derby skaters do, and also if you are heavier.  Save yourself the panic of having to buy new plates or find substitute skates at the last minute, and buy your first pair of skates with aluminum plates.  The weight difference is insignificant, and some of the high-end aluminum plates are super lightweight.

Wheels—The one thing that is hardest to get right the first time out is wheels.  It is such an individual thing.  The first issue is hardness—what hardness does a skater need?  That depends on a couple of key factors.  The first is the surface you will be regularly skating on, and the second is your weight.  Certain surfaces, such as concrete or various brands of sport tile, are slick and require a softer wheel, whereas traditional wood skating rink floors favor a harder wheel.  Also, a heavier skater can skate on a much harder wheel than a lighter skater, and the faster you go around the turns, the more grip you need.  So, for example, while a 180-lb blocker can skate really well on a wood floor with 96A wheels, a 110-lb jammer on the same floor is probably going prefer something like a 90A wheel.

Another deciding factor in wheels is width.  A narrower wheel will allow you to cut and change direction much more easily that a wide wheel.  Also, in a tight pack, you are far less likely to clip other skaters and lock wheels with a narrower wheel.  The downside is they don’t track straight as easily as a wider wheel and can feel a little “squirrely”.  But that can be overcome for anyone looking for the added agility a narrow wheel offers.

You’ll find wheels varying in price from around $50 to well over $100.  What makes the difference?  The lower-end wheels usually only come in one hardness, and it’s usually either really soft or really hard.  So if you prefer a mid-range hardness, you’re out of luck.  Once you get into the $70-$90 range, you will find you have a full range of options including a variety of hardnesses and widths, so it’s good to go into it with that price range in mind.  It’s better to spend $90 on the right wheel than to waste $50 on the wrong wheel.

Toe Stops—Toe stops are to skates what mouthguards are to protective gear.  There are so many different sizes and shapes, and it just depends on the individual.  Fortunately, they are all relatively inexpensive, and you can’t really choose a wrong one.  Most people go with medium-small ones so that they are less obtrusive.

Packages—Packages can be a good place to start.  Sometimes you will get a better deal with a package rather than going with a custom pair, but that’s only true if every part of the skate is exactly what you want.  You’ll find more online retailers than you will brick and mortar, so that is where most skaters purchase their skates.  However, if your local rink has a decent pro shop, it’s worth talking to them to see if they can get you a good deal. 

Some retailers only offer the most popular packages that the manufacturers offer, and some go off the page and offer a wider variety.  Check out our sponsor, rollergirlskates.com to see the huge selection of skate packages available.  Keep in mind that as long as you don’t use them, most retailers will take back package skates, though sometimes they will charge a restocking fee.  So once you get your skates, try them on, stand up in them (on carpet!), and see if they fit well.  When it comes to fit of your skates, “close enough” is not close enough.  Your feet will give you no end of misery with an improper fit.

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